The news: Kering has launched a new business unit that brings its jewelry houses—Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, and Qeelin—together under one umbrella, along with its industrial capabilities, including jewelry manufacturer Raselli Franco Group.

The new division, Kering Jewelry, will operate as an integrated platform designed to streamline operations and speed up decision-making. COO Jean-Marc Duplaix will serve as CEO of the division while retaining his current responsibilities.

The context: The move is part of new CEO Luca de Meo’s broader effort to rethink how Kering operates as it works to revive group sales. Performance has been weighed down by struggles at Gucci, its largest and most important brand.

Alongside the jewelry restructuring, Kering created a new fashion and leather goods segment that includes Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, McQueen, and Brioni. Gucci’s results will continue to be reported separately, reflecting its outsize importance to the group.

Notably, Kering’s jewelry houses have been a relative bright spot. The group reported expansion for Q4 2025 with double-digit growth at Boucheron, steady performance at Pomellato, accelerating momentum at DoDo, and solid growth at Qeelin.

Implications for Kering and other brands: Creating a standalone Kering Jewelry unit should give the group greater control over production, faster decision-making, and a clearer strategic focus. That structure better positions Kering to compete with LVMH and Richemont, which have long treated jewelry as a core growth pillar, investing heavily in scale, expertise, and vertically integrated supply chains.

The reorganization—along with Duplaix’s leadership of the division—also elevates jewelry to a more central role in Kering’s growth strategy, an important shift as Gucci works through its turnaround.

The move also reflects Kering’s recognition that jewelry has proven more resilient and less trend-driven than fashion. By leaning further into hard luxury, Kering is adjusting its portfolio to better mirror competitors that have already made high-end jewelry a cornerstone of long-term growth.

This content is part of EMARKETER’s subscription Briefings, where we pair daily updates with data and analysis from forecasts and research reports. Our Briefings prepare you to start your day informed, to provide critical insights in an important meeting, and to understand the context of what’s happening in your industry. Non-clients can click here to get a demo of our full platform and coverage.